AUSTRIA

Austrian countryside

Rainy days and cloudy skies overshadowed our first few stops in Austria but could not hide the beauty of this country --- magnificent mountains, sheer cliffs, hills lined with green velvet grass and dotted with alpine houses. 

View from chairlift

Ron and Rainer at the grill 

Fortunately, we had been forewarned that Austria (like Slovenia) requires a highway pass that must be pre-purchased, so we arrived in a small town on Lake Millstatt without mishap. Our hotel had a spa and offered breakfast and dinner so we did not have to venture out in bad weather.  Between rainfalls, we were able to get in a little biking and walking.  

Traditional Austrian music

Sampling local cheese

Taking the boat around Wolfgangsee

The heart of  Mozart Square in St. Gilgen

St. Johann in Tirol

Our next stop was a small town 45 minutes south of Salzburg and one of the highlights of this trip.  A friend I had known in Florida moved back to Europe 25 years ago. For the past 12 years, Rainer and his wife have lived in Muhlbach am Hochkönig.  Formerly a copper mining site, the town is part of an idyllic area known for its magnificent scenery, hiking and skiing.

There is nothing like seeing a country through the eyes of a native.  We got to tour a replica of the copper mines, hear traditional music, meet a local cheese maker and ride a chairlift to the top of a ski mountain. From there, we could see countless miles of ski runs.  Thanks to cooperation between various ski centers, you can spend the day skiing from one mountain to another  All in all, it was a wonderful few days. Rainer and his wife could not have been kinder, more gracious hosts.  

The weather was gradually improving as we continued on to St. Gilgen on Wolfgangsee, a beautiful lake created long ago by the erosion of a glacier.  The lake was named after Wolgang Amadeus Mozart's patron saint.  Though Mozart never visited St. Gilgen, his mother was born here and his sister lived in St. Gilgen after she married. 

We took one of the boats that circle the lake and stops at various towns along the way.  We also enjoyed pleasant walks along both sides of the lake. 

Driving past Salzburg and west into ever higher mountains, we came to St. Johann in Tirol. From 1540 until the 18th century, the economy thrived thanks to copper and silver mines.  Today it depends on tourism --- skiers in winter; hikers, bikers and paragliders in summer. Unfortunately, the weather took a turn for the worse again and we had rain and cloudy skies during our stay. Fortunately, we had a little apartment with a kitchen so Chef Ron was able to whip up some nice, healthy meals.  

    

Austria was once part of the Holy Roman Empire.  Today it is a member of the European Union and an independent democracy.  Lying within the Alps, Austria is bordered by Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Germany, Czech Republic, Hungary, Slovakia, Slovenia and Italy.  

  

SLOVENIA

Our lovely residence in Bled

Town of Bled at the foot of the mountains

Bled Castle

Pathway around the lake 

Slovenia is a beautiful country but we did not have a beatific entrance to it. One must buy a pass to use the  highways before entering the country.  We, along with countless others, did not see the sign just before the border stating that.  (I've since read that it is very small). Consequently we were pulled over and issued a ticket for 150 euros ($205).  It is literally highway robbery. Fortunately, the beauty of Bled eased our pain.

Island in Lake Bled

  

Vintgar Gorge 

Vintgar Gorge

Bled is in northwest Slovenia on a small glacial lake. Bled Castle sits atop a rocky cliff overlooking the lake and town. Traces of prehistoric humans have been found on the small island in the lake (the only island in the whole country). There are 99 steps up to the church that now occupies it and local tradition calls for a groom to carry his bride all the way up those steps. And the bride is not to say a word the entire time.  I would think that results in men choosing very petite brides.  Possibly petite and silent.  

Vintgar Gorge

There is a lovely pathway around Bled Lake that made for a nice 3 mile long hike. We also took a short drive to Vintgar Gorge.  A 1,600 meter (1 mile) long, narrow pathway is flanked by steep, rocky cliffs that range from 160 to 330 feet high.  The Radovna River winds through them. 

Vintgar Gorge

This was our only stop in Slovenia, a short layover before we head into Austria.   It is a small country, just over 2 million people, bordered by Croatia, Italy, Austria and Hungary and a small area along the Adriatic Sea. The mountains and architecture give it an Austrian flavor.  In 1991, Slovenia split from Yugoslavia and became independent.  It is presently a member of the European Union. 










   

  

CROATIA: INLAND

Our residence during our visit to Krka National Park 

Our apartment opened onto the pool

Krka National Park 

Croatia has 8 national parks - quite a lot for a country slightly smaller than West Virginia. We visited two of them.  The first, Krka National Park, runs along the Krka River and is home to the largest travertine cascade system in Europe.  A boardwalk winds around some of the 17 waterfalls and pools. After walking that, we took a boat ride to another waterfall farther up the river.  It also 

Krka National Park

stopped at an island in the middle of the river that has been the site of a Franciscan monastery since 1445. 

Our residence was a short drive from the entrance to the park in the midst of olive trees and vineyards.  It seemed more more like a country estate than a commercial property.  

Plitvice Lakes National Park

Plitvice Lakes National Park

Continuing eastward, we came to Croatia's most famous national park, Plitvice Lakes.  No easy boat ride here.  Over the course of 2 days we walked many miles up, down and around 16 green and turquoise lakes linked by countless waterfalls. 114 square miles in size and considered one of the most beautiful natural sites in Europe, Plitvice is a UNESCO World Heritage site. 

Plitvice Lakes National Park

Our final stop in Croatia was Krapinske Toplice, a small town in an area known for green rolling hills, medieval castles and thermal springs.  We had a package deal here that included 5 relaxing days in a spacious apartment, use of the hotel’s spa facilities, massages and superb 5 course dinners. 

Plitvice Lakes National Park

Plitvice Lakes National Park

For a small nation, Croatia seems to have it all.  Majestic mountains, historic cities, charming villages, about 1,200 islands and 1,100 miles of coastline. The people are very kind and most helpful.  Yet, like most of Europe, the country faces economic problems. Taxes are high and the birth rate is well below replacement level.  The median age of the population is 41.4.  

After 39 days and 11 stops, we say farewell to Croatia and head into Slovenia and then Austria.

Krapinske Toplice one evening
                                                               

Now that we know how beautiful this country is and how many nice places there are to stay, we hope to return. We certainly wish Croatia and its people well as we had a wonderful experience here.

Farewell to Croatia 

CROATIAN COAST

Lion of Venice gate into Zadar 's old city   

Zadar's cathdral

Alfred Hitchcock thought the sunset in the ancient city of Zadar was the most beautiful in the world.  With crystal clear waters and numerous islands off its coast, Zadar is certainly scenic but it is also very historic. Zadar is

Church of St. Donat 9th century

3,000 years old and the 5th  

Ron on the steps of the water organ 

largest city in Croatia. Zagreb, the capital, is the largest.  

The city gates and walls around Zadar's medieval center were built when the land was part of the Roman Empire.  Numerous ruins and 

Roman ruins

monuments from that period remain.  More recent additions to the old city are the University of Zadar, a wide walkway around the city and a water organ.  It is an interesting and lovely town to walk around.  We also enjoyed a ferry ride across to the island of Preko.

Rogoznica

Our apartment building in Rogoznica

Undoubtedly, the most serene place we stayed was Rogoznica.  Our residence was at the water's edge with a large balcony to enjoy the view. Since the building was not yet full, the owners kindly upgraded us from a studio to a 2 bedroom apartment. It was about a 15 minute walk on a gravel path along the sea into town which is known for having one of the safest, most sheltered bays on the Adriatic.  

View from our balcony in Rogoznica

The bay of Maraska

Baroque church in Maraska town center

Our hotel in Maraska beside the promenade and beach

Continuing south along the coastline, we came to one of Croatia's most popular vacation areas, the Maraska Riviera, a 38 mile stretch of small towns and nice beaches.  
The town of  Makarska is in 

Clock tower in Trogir 

the center of the Riviera with sandy beaches and a sheltered bay on one side and massive Mount Bioko on the other. The rocky cliffs are 5,770 feet high and hover over the town like protective giant. We were fortunate to again take half board at our hotel there. They offered an excellent 4 course dinner at their restaurant which was right on the promenade overlooking the sea. 

Trogir's fortress

Lookout tower Trogir

Our final stop on the coast was Trogir. In the 3rd century B.C., Trogir was founded by Greek colonists 

Our apartment building in Trogir

View from our apartment in Trogir

and has continually been inhabited ever since.  Romans and Venetians added to the architecture over the years and in 1997, Trogir was added to UNESCO's World Heritage sights as the best preserved Romanesque-Gothic town in central Europe.  Situated on a small island, its narrow streets lead to ancient towers, churches and a fortress.  The medieval core is surrounded by walls.  On the outskirts are a daily green market and permanent market stalls.  

From Trogir, a pleasant one hour boat ride took us to Spit, Croatia's second largest city.

One of the gates into Palace complex

Central courtyard  of Diocletian's Palace

15BC Egyptian sphinx at the Palace courtyard  

The bell tower of St Duje Cathedral 

The main draw here is Diocletian’s Palace, also a UNESCO World Heritage site.   The Emperor Diocletian chose the land beside Split's harbor for the construction of his retirement home.  Begun in 293 and completed 10 years later, it was  actually a small city. 

The Cathedral of St. Duje was built in the 13th century and stands next to the original site of the emperor's mausoleum. On the other side is a black granite sphinx that Diocletian brought back from conquests in Egypt.  

Now we head inland to visit two of Croatia's national parks.  

    

CROATIA: WOW!

Hotel Lone pools 

Hotel Lone's beach front 

We arrived in Croatia on May 25th and quickly fell in love with the country.  It is absolutely beautiful! Though many of the buildings in the cities are from the post war era, modern resorts have been built along the water to accommodate the growing tourist trade.   

The town of Rovinj

Our balcony and adjacent whirlpool

We stayed at four different locations on the Istrian peninsula, the largest peninsula in Croatia.  Slightly south of Trieste, Italy, Istria juts out into the northern Adriatic Sea.  The land was originally an island but the channel that separated it from the mainland was filled in during the 1700s.  

Our first stop was in the small, picturesque town of Rovinj.  We had four lovely days at Hotel Lone, our last Luxury Link special for a while. The hotel is ultra chic and the grounds are beautiful with several connected pools and a beach area situated on a cove. It is walking distance to town on one side and has a park on the other side with bike and walking trails.  Our room opened onto a patio with a whirlpool that ran the length of the balcony and overlooked the pool and forest.

The pool at Histria Park Plaza Hotel in Pula

TRAVEL TIP: Although many of the Luxury Link offers are expensive, there are good deals to be had -- especially if you travel in the off or shoulder season.  The hotels we have stayed at have been reasonable and the package usually includes perks like breakfast, a massage, dinner, resort credit to spend.  The auction price is better than the Buy Now price, so I always call the hotel ahead to make sure they have availability on our preferred dates. 

View from our balcony across marina to Pula

Typical Croatian beach

We spent another four days at a hotel in Pula.  Pula is an ancient city that reached its zenith under Roman rule in 46 – 45 B.C. Emperors and nobility spent summers here. The 6^th Roman amphitheater was built in Pula; we saw the massive structure on our way through town.  There is evidence of humans in the area one million years ago. 

At this hotel as well as the following two, we booked half board which means that breakfast and dinner were included, a nice convenience.  

The village of Rabac

Beach and walkway in front of our hotel in Rabac

 All the hotels had excellent
service and outstanding wellness areas with indoor pool, sauna, steam and whirlpools.  We would happily return to any of them but first choice would probably be our third stop - the Valamar Sanfior in Rabac. There was a beautiful walkway along the water into a small, cute town and the food at the hotel was superb. 

View from our hotel in Opatija

Like so many resort towns along the water, Rabac was originally a small fishing village and the shore is dotted with stone covered beaches. People bring chairs or mats or just stretch out on the large rocks that dot the coast and surround the incredibly clear water. 

Park in center of Opatija originally part of ...

Our fourth and final stop was the small city of Opatija, the first seaside resort on the Istrian Peninsula. Winding along the water are a promenade, outdoor restaurants, a beautiful park, and hotels and villas that exude the beauty and luxury of when they were built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries to accommodate Austrian nobility.  Villas also dot the hills surrounding the town.  Most of the ones on the water have been converted to luxurious hotels.

this villa

Croatia has changed hands many times over the years.  In 1947, it was ceded to Yugoslavia but fought for and finally achieved its desire for independence in a war that lasted from 1991 – 95.  The country became the 28^th member of the European Union on July 1, 2013.

Croatia has a population of slightly less than 4 and 1/2 million and ranks as the 18th most popular tourist destination in the world.  However, it is gaining recognition and I suspect it will soon climb higher.              

Seaside villa converted to hotel

Opatija's waterside promenade 

                            Villas  from Opatija's Belle Epoque converted to colorful hotels

              Now we begin our journey down the Croatian coast.