RETURN TO ITALY

Bridges across the Passer River into  Merano

Flowers in Merano

Merano's concert hall 

Wide promenades along the river

Medieval gate into Merano's old city

Slightly south of the Austrian border is the city of Merano, Italy. In this mountainous section of Italy, the people speak both German and Italian as the area was part of Austria until after World War I.  

Merano is a beautiful city situated in a basin beside the Passer River. Surrounded by the south Tyrolean Alps that rise up to 11,000 feet high, the town is noted for a mild climate and health spas.  Merano counts Ezra Pound and Franz Kafka among famous residents of the past.

Our hotel near Vicenza

Continuing south, we spent a few relaxing days in a hotel on a mountaintop just outside the city of Vicenza before moving on to Ravenna. 

St. Francesco Church Ravenna

Ravenna has a large, interesting historic district as it was the capital city of several ancient empires. There are 8 UNESCO World Heritage sites here. Ravenna  is mentioned in Dante's Inferno and he is buried here.

Piazza del Popolo Ravenna

Basillica St. Vitale Ravenna

Seeking beaches and sunshine, we made our way to Italy's Adriatic coast.  We spent four days in Bellaria-Igea Marina followed by four days in Alba Adriatica. Both are typical seaside towns. The beaches are lined with umbrellas and lounge chairs as far as the eye can see.  A walking and bike riding path runs alongside the beach, and hotels, cafes and shops line the streets.  It seems like every Italian family in the country vacations along this coast.  As Americans, we are a rarity.  Most of the hotels, including the ones we stayed at in each town, have a private section of beach and provide umbrella and beach chairs. 

Beaches line Italy's Adriatic coast 

Most also offer full board.  As opposed to half board which includes breakfast and dinner, full board also includes lunch. Lunches and dinners are four course meals. First there is a salad buffet, then a pasta dish, an entree and dessert. Breakfasts are always described as 'sweet and savory' meaning lots of pastries and breads.  From what we have seen of the typical diet here, it is a wonder all Italians aren't obese.  

We now continue south toward the heel of Italy. 

Our hotel in Alba Adriatica

Hotel's private beach

AUSTRIA TYROL

A rare sunny day in Kaltenbach

The spa in Kaltenbach

We visited 3 towns in the Austrian state of Tyrol.  All are popular ski resorts as the area is in the heart of the Alps.  They are also popular summer destinations as Austrians love hiking the mountain trails. 
Unfortunately, rain and clouds continued to dampen most of our days but not our spirits. 

Semi-sunny day in Kaltenbach

Kaltenbach had one of the nicest facilities of the trip.  We had a large, bright room with a balcony.  Food on the half board menu was excellent. There was a spacious garage for the car and a new beautiful spa area. 

Seefeld

Aurora & Alan

Climbing even higher into the mountains, we arrived in the charming town of Seefeld.  For once there was more sunshine than rain which was a real blessing since we planned to meet friends there.  

Seefeld

Flower Power Parade

Flower Power Parade

You may remember Alan from previous blogs.  He met us last year in Montpelier, France and the last 2 winters, he came over from Colorado to spend a few days with us in Palm Desert.  This time, Alan is traveling with his friend Aurora.  It was wonderful to spend some time with them.  We were fortunate to be in Seefeld for the annual Flower Power Parade and had a perfect view of the flower floats, antique tractors and fire engines from Alan and Aurora’s balcony. 

St. Anton am Arlberg

St. Anton am Arlberg, our last stop in Austria, had everything we have enjoyed about this country… magnificent scenery, a pristine town, pure mountain air and beautiful alpine architecture.  

Scenes around St. Anton am Arlberg

Scenes around St. Anton am Arlberg

Our hotel was in the pedestrian district and in walking distance to 6 ski lifts which is why the town is best known for skiing.  Our hotel was new and modern and every room had an infra red sauna cabin.  The benefits of infra red saunas are numerous.  Once again, we chose the half board option and the food was the best we have had on the whole trip.

Scenes around St. Anton am Arlberg 

So now it is time to say Auf Wiedersehen to Austria and head back into Italy.   

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AUSTRIA

Austrian countryside

Rainy days and cloudy skies overshadowed our first few stops in Austria but could not hide the beauty of this country --- magnificent mountains, sheer cliffs, hills lined with green velvet grass and dotted with alpine houses. 

View from chairlift

Ron and Rainer at the grill 

Fortunately, we had been forewarned that Austria (like Slovenia) requires a highway pass that must be pre-purchased, so we arrived in a small town on Lake Millstatt without mishap. Our hotel had a spa and offered breakfast and dinner so we did not have to venture out in bad weather.  Between rainfalls, we were able to get in a little biking and walking.  

Traditional Austrian music

Sampling local cheese

Taking the boat around Wolfgangsee

The heart of  Mozart Square in St. Gilgen

St. Johann in Tirol

Our next stop was a small town 45 minutes south of Salzburg and one of the highlights of this trip.  A friend I had known in Florida moved back to Europe 25 years ago. For the past 12 years, Rainer and his wife have lived in Muhlbach am Hochkönig.  Formerly a copper mining site, the town is part of an idyllic area known for its magnificent scenery, hiking and skiing.

There is nothing like seeing a country through the eyes of a native.  We got to tour a replica of the copper mines, hear traditional music, meet a local cheese maker and ride a chairlift to the top of a ski mountain. From there, we could see countless miles of ski runs.  Thanks to cooperation between various ski centers, you can spend the day skiing from one mountain to another  All in all, it was a wonderful few days. Rainer and his wife could not have been kinder, more gracious hosts.  

The weather was gradually improving as we continued on to St. Gilgen on Wolfgangsee, a beautiful lake created long ago by the erosion of a glacier.  The lake was named after Wolgang Amadeus Mozart's patron saint.  Though Mozart never visited St. Gilgen, his mother was born here and his sister lived in St. Gilgen after she married. 

We took one of the boats that circle the lake and stops at various towns along the way.  We also enjoyed pleasant walks along both sides of the lake. 

Driving past Salzburg and west into ever higher mountains, we came to St. Johann in Tirol. From 1540 until the 18th century, the economy thrived thanks to copper and silver mines.  Today it depends on tourism --- skiers in winter; hikers, bikers and paragliders in summer. Unfortunately, the weather took a turn for the worse again and we had rain and cloudy skies during our stay. Fortunately, we had a little apartment with a kitchen so Chef Ron was able to whip up some nice, healthy meals.  

    

Austria was once part of the Holy Roman Empire.  Today it is a member of the European Union and an independent democracy.  Lying within the Alps, Austria is bordered by Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Germany, Czech Republic, Hungary, Slovakia, Slovenia and Italy.  

  

SLOVENIA

Our lovely residence in Bled

Town of Bled at the foot of the mountains

Bled Castle

Pathway around the lake 

Slovenia is a beautiful country but we did not have a beatific entrance to it. One must buy a pass to use the  highways before entering the country.  We, along with countless others, did not see the sign just before the border stating that.  (I've since read that it is very small). Consequently we were pulled over and issued a ticket for 150 euros ($205).  It is literally highway robbery. Fortunately, the beauty of Bled eased our pain.

Island in Lake Bled

  

Vintgar Gorge 

Vintgar Gorge

Bled is in northwest Slovenia on a small glacial lake. Bled Castle sits atop a rocky cliff overlooking the lake and town. Traces of prehistoric humans have been found on the small island in the lake (the only island in the whole country). There are 99 steps up to the church that now occupies it and local tradition calls for a groom to carry his bride all the way up those steps. And the bride is not to say a word the entire time.  I would think that results in men choosing very petite brides.  Possibly petite and silent.  

Vintgar Gorge

There is a lovely pathway around Bled Lake that made for a nice 3 mile long hike. We also took a short drive to Vintgar Gorge.  A 1,600 meter (1 mile) long, narrow pathway is flanked by steep, rocky cliffs that range from 160 to 330 feet high.  The Radovna River winds through them. 

Vintgar Gorge

This was our only stop in Slovenia, a short layover before we head into Austria.   It is a small country, just over 2 million people, bordered by Croatia, Italy, Austria and Hungary and a small area along the Adriatic Sea. The mountains and architecture give it an Austrian flavor.  In 1991, Slovenia split from Yugoslavia and became independent.  It is presently a member of the European Union. 










   

  

CROATIA: INLAND

Our residence during our visit to Krka National Park 

Our apartment opened onto the pool

Krka National Park 

Croatia has 8 national parks - quite a lot for a country slightly smaller than West Virginia. We visited two of them.  The first, Krka National Park, runs along the Krka River and is home to the largest travertine cascade system in Europe.  A boardwalk winds around some of the 17 waterfalls and pools. After walking that, we took a boat ride to another waterfall farther up the river.  It also 

Krka National Park

stopped at an island in the middle of the river that has been the site of a Franciscan monastery since 1445. 

Our residence was a short drive from the entrance to the park in the midst of olive trees and vineyards.  It seemed more more like a country estate than a commercial property.  

Plitvice Lakes National Park

Plitvice Lakes National Park

Continuing eastward, we came to Croatia's most famous national park, Plitvice Lakes.  No easy boat ride here.  Over the course of 2 days we walked many miles up, down and around 16 green and turquoise lakes linked by countless waterfalls. 114 square miles in size and considered one of the most beautiful natural sites in Europe, Plitvice is a UNESCO World Heritage site. 

Plitvice Lakes National Park

Our final stop in Croatia was Krapinske Toplice, a small town in an area known for green rolling hills, medieval castles and thermal springs.  We had a package deal here that included 5 relaxing days in a spacious apartment, use of the hotel’s spa facilities, massages and superb 5 course dinners. 

Plitvice Lakes National Park

Plitvice Lakes National Park

For a small nation, Croatia seems to have it all.  Majestic mountains, historic cities, charming villages, about 1,200 islands and 1,100 miles of coastline. The people are very kind and most helpful.  Yet, like most of Europe, the country faces economic problems. Taxes are high and the birth rate is well below replacement level.  The median age of the population is 41.4.  

After 39 days and 11 stops, we say farewell to Croatia and head into Slovenia and then Austria.

Krapinske Toplice one evening
                                                               

Now that we know how beautiful this country is and how many nice places there are to stay, we hope to return. We certainly wish Croatia and its people well as we had a wonderful experience here.

Farewell to Croatia